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Cruelty free: Por qué no debemos seguir testeando

mayo 14, 2019 by Isabel Pinto en Mestizos Magazine

Son varias las empresas que han optado como política, y también como bandera de lucha, terminar con el sufrimiento de los animales como consecuencia del testeo. Sin embargo, son varias también, las que se mantienen al margen y todavía lo hacen, nos preguntamos el por qué.

Por Valeska Silva Pohl.

Eres de las personas que revisa si el producto que va a comprar fue testeado en animales? ¿entiendes que esas pruebas implican tortura? Pues bien, si tu respuesta es sí, te contamos que cada día son más las personas que están interesadas en hacer erradicar esta práctica y, a su vez, las empresas de cosmética han decidido apoyarlas.

En nuestro país la ONG Te Protejo certifica a las empresas cosméticas cruelty free. En su sitio web www.teprotejo.cl podemos consultar todas las marcas del rubro que se comercializan en Chile y que están certificadas, por ésta u otra compañía. Desde el año 2013 Te Protejo es la única organización en Latinoamérica dedicada a dar esta certificación.

Elisa Grube, Product Manager de The Body Shop, presente en el país desde 2016, nos explica que la lucha de la marca contra el testeo animal comenzó hace más de 20 años. “Cuando nadie hablaba del tema. Desde entonces, hemos contribuido siempre junto a Cruelty Free International (nuestro partner de campañas) que se prohíba el testeo en ingredientes y productos cosméticos, esto comenzó primero en Inglaterra, luego en todo el Reino Unido y después en la Unión Europea (UE)”.

Grube recuerda que fue el año 2013, luego de reunir un millón de firmas, la UE prohibió incluso la comercialización de productos cosméticos que hubieran sido probados en animales. “Pero, estamos convencidos que esto tiene que ser una política global, por eso el 2018 reunimos 8 millones de firmas en todo el mundo en contra de esta práctica, las que presentamos a la ONU con el fin de lograr una convención internacional que termine con el testeo animal en todo el mundo de una vez y para siempre”, destaca.

Por su parte, desde Weleda -compañia suizo-alemana – nos confirman que desde sus inicios en 1921 han elaborado su cosmética sin testear en animales. “Es parte de nuestros valores corporativos a lo largo del tiempo el estar en armonía con el medio ambiente. Estamos certificados por el sello europeo Natrue (natrue.org)”, explica Paula Orozco, Gerente de Marketing de Weleda Chile. Agrega que es una temática que para muchos países es más reciente, pero en evidente crecimiento. “El mercado europeo lleva más años generando conciencia, educando y legislando sobre certificaciones que avalen de manera exhaustiva el no testeo animal. Los consumidores saben distinguir y las marcas legalmente no pueden decir algo que no son. En la UE no está permitida la comercialización de productos cosméticos testeados en animales, ni tampoco en alguno de sus ingredientes. Probablemente este modelo comience a extenderse en otras partes del mundo”.

Para la ejecutiva, Chile es un modelo de mercado más nuevo, “poco a poco van llegando marcas que sí poseen certificaciones de alto estándar. Nuestro foco de comunicación va en educar al consumidor, a que investigue, pregunte y se informe sobre los productos que elige y es nuestro deber como marcas darles toda la información que necesiten”, destaca.

Innecesario

El caso nacional de Pamela Grant tiene una historia similar a la de Weleda. En sus más de 70 años de historia, nunca ha testeado en animales. Recientemente se certificó por la ONG Te Protejo, y hoy pertenece al único conglomerado cosmético en Chile certificado en un 100% “. El no testeo ha sido desde siempre un compromiso que, mediante esta certificación, termina de formalizar una política que está en el ADN de la marca y que hemos comunicado abiertamente a nuestras consumidoras porque nos importa y queremos, de esta forma, generar aún más impacto en la población” explica Manuel Figueroa, Brand Manager. Comenta que partieron con la certificación en maquillaje, la que han hecho extensiva a todas sus categorías, porque la certificación “nos valida más allá de sólo una declaración, y nos permite ser participantes activamente de una temática tan latente en el mundo de la cosmética”, sostiene Figueroa.

Agrega que no existen “ventajas” para las empresas que hoy mantienen el testeo animal en la fabricación y prueba de sus productos. “Ninguna ventaja. Hoy la tecnología entrega múltiples posibilidades para entregar iguales o mejores productos sin la necesidad de generar ningún daño. El beneficio directo es para las consumidoras, ya que aumenta la oferta de marcas y productos a los que pueden acceder. De hecho, según el estudio realizado por Te Protejo y Cadem en 2018, el 78% de las consumidoras rechazan el testeo en animales. Realizar pruebas sobre animales es, finalmente, un tema ético. Hace 70 años cuando no existían métodos alternativos, Pamela Grant no realizaba ningún tipo de testeo en animales, y hoy, con todos estos avances, siquiera es necesario cuestionarse la temática. Durante todos estos años, hemos podido mantener nuestra trayectoria y excelentes resultados en los productos sin involucrar sufrimiento animal”, enfatiza Figueroa.

Para el ejecutivo los mecanismos para NO testear son diversos. “Hoy existen variados métodos tanto dentro de nuestros laboratorios, como ejecutados por terceros que nos permitieron terminar con el testeo animal. Nuestros testeos dermatológicos son realizados por clínicas especializadas que cumplen estándares protocolizados y certificaciones a nivel global, los estudios de eficacias, generalmente se realizan mediante pruebas in vitro sobre los activos estudiados durante el proceso de investigación y desarrollo. Además, nuestra compañía cuenta con un Centro Técnico capacitado para realizar las evaluaciones de fórmulas antes de lanzar y comercializar los productos e innovaciones”.

Cada marca tiene sus propias razones, pero “felizmente” cada día son más quienes no lo hace por una mezcla de factores. “Primero, creo que las marcas han ido entendiendo que la certificación es algo que es importante para la consumidora al momento de realizar sus compras y, segundo, puede también deberse al efecto tendencia. Sin embargo, espero, que más allá de la tendencia o boom que se puede estar viendo dentro del mercado, ésta sea una decisión ética y de convicción profunda de las marcas, ya que éste es solo uno de los muchos temas relevantes dentro de la industria”.

El ejecutivo coincide en que la gente está cada vez más informada y consciente. “Para nuestra consumidora, esta temática es tremendamente relevante y simboliza tranquilidad y confianza al momento de usar nuestros productos, entendiendo que, según el estudio ya mencionado 7 de cada 10 mujeres saben que algunos componentes de productos son testados en animales antes de salir a la venta”. ¿Tú revisas el origen y procedencia de los productos cosméticos que estás adquiriendo? Recuerda elegir siempre los que sean libres de testeo, nuestros queridos animales te lo agradecerán.

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